![]() ![]() The most energy-efficient option is the only way to go, even if it is the most expensive. When you fasten lath over thicker insulation (1-plus-inch) screws provide a much more consistent result compared to shot-in pins that will often ricochet or spall out. Research is the key to success, and you need to do your homework.ĭon’t skimp on price. For thin insulation (up to 1-inch thickness) shot-in fasteners with 1¼-inch diameter lath and plaster washers may provide consistent results. polystyrene bead (but breaks down when used near to electrical wiring) perlite. Heat pump versus oil? Add natural gas to this question. Insulating behind lath and plaster walls Suitable insulating materials may include: blown cellulose. Look for a link to the “Delaware Project.” Obviously, it’s difficult seeing behind the walls when this is done, but qualified and experienced insulation contractors are very good at it.Īt the website I found a great video series that demonstrates the technique. Today, common stud depths are 150mm and 200mm. The depth of insulation used is typically the same as the depth of wall stud. After installing the insulation, the wall can be sealed with a vapour check to improve airtightness. This has to be done very carefully, so the insulation is evenly distributed and doesn’t settle in one place. This is an important element to insulate as it can account for up to 30 of heat loss from a building. The method I’ve seen most often is blowing cellulose insulation into a hole punched into the plaster wall. Lath and plaster walls have a slightly better insulating R-value than do drywall wall systems. You will need to be careful when lifting the floorboards as any undue vibration or banging could loosen the lath / plaster also dont pack the insulation in the void to tightly so as to put pressure on the ceiling when floorboards are relayed. But my efforts didn’t seem to make either house more energy-efficient. In the house that had an attic, I insulated the floor there. Two of the houses I have owned had plaster walls, and I tried to seal gaps where the walls met the floors and the roof, to reduce air intrusion. A finished drywall wall ready for painting. I don’t subscribe to this I’m just sharing. Your only insulation option is going to be blown-in insulation. These walls were designed to breathe, meaning that they provide more than enough ventilation to prevent growth of mold. ![]() Some old-house experts have told me over the years that thick plaster walls and the wood lath underneath are thicker than most drywall. I assume that is not part of your overall plan, however. Many homeowners do this as part of remodeling projects, since the walls have to be ripped into anyway. It is possible to insulate lath and plaster walls.
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